music, media & other random musings

Zagreb to Istanbul

Aside from the only 5 hours sleep I got (when 9 would have been more appropriate after the night I had before), the travel was uneventful and easy. The woman who owns the B&B I was staying at in Cavtat, so incredibly kind, drove me to the airport at 5:15am. I had asked her to call me a taxi, but she wouldn't have it. Flight left on time, 6:25, and arrived in Zagreb at 7:30. I asked at the airport if there was a place to store my overnight bag, but there wasn't. So me and my somewhat heavy bag took the bus into the city center, 20 minutes. Because I was somewhat comotose and not thinking straight, I didn't ask at the bus station about storing luggage. Unfortunate, as that's where they would have held it for me and even more unfortunate, because I ended up lugging this bag around with me for the next 3-4 hours. All in all, Zagreb not so interesting. Could have been that I was dog tired and had that bag, but all in all, nothing much to see. Just a cute, European city. And as one shoulder was busy, didn't have much energy or inclination to snap more than a few pictures.  

After getting off the bus, a very kind man directed me to the #6 tram that stopped in a main square, to check out the city center. Again, short ride - maybe 10 minutes tops. This is the beginning - or part of - the "Green Horsehoe," a series of green parks, esplanades where many of the historic buildings and museums reside.  I walked up through the parks and to the main square Ban Jospi Jelacic. Instinctively somehow, I ended up right where the food stalls markets were. Similar to Split, but Split's was much more impressive. Zagreb has two hills I found out, this particular square seperates the two. The upper town is older, and is where the Zagreb Cathedral is - apparently high on the tourist list. I didn't go in, but did sit across from it in a cafe and had my first of many morning coffees. The lower is where the Green Horsehoe is. I cirlcled the upper and lower towns and made my way back to the green square called Stossmayerov, where I took a little lie down and read. 

Flight didn't leave til 2:45pm, so had some time to kill. There actually were a few museums I would have checked out. And a proper meal would have done me good. But just didn't have it in me. Again, flight on time, only 2 hour flight - bag there literally when I stepped to the luggage carousel and the driver was right there with my name on it. (Probably shouldn't be saying this out loud... bad luck for the rest of the flights...)

When I sent out a bulk email, asking for any suggestions for places to see, eat, etc in any of my destinations, I got some very passionate responses and suggestions. One of them was from an old friend Douglas Gayeton, who I used to work with years ago. He gave me a long list of things to do and places to eat here in Istanbul. But even better, introduced me to Anya Von Bremzen, who owns a flat here. (Anya is a food writer/critic, who has extensively covered Istanbul's restaurants. Looking forward to checking out both their suggestions.) Her apartment is located in the Cihangir quarter of the Beyoglu district. As she lives in New York, she has a company called Flats In Istanbul that manage the place for her. The company, and Ali Gundem has been wonderful & easy to work with - from booking the place to meeting up at the apartment last night when I arrived to walking through everything in the flat along with drawing out a map of the neighborhood's essentials, metro stops, etc. and through to today, when he sent over a maintenance guy this morning to fix a few minor things in the apartment. Couldn't have been easier.  

The apartment is great - tons of light, amazing view of the Bosphorous (picture was taken from the open window) and apparently in a great neighborhood, close to Taksim Square. Admittedly, haven't gotten out yet today to check it out. Got some household essentials last night in the shops before dark, and haven't left since. I'm actually really still incredibly beat, even after 8 1/2 hours of sleep last night, and don't feel much like thinking or walking. (And that hill up to Taksim Square is daunting!!) That's the beauty of a long trip, and of staying in one place for so long. I'll be here 11 days and have no "guilt" about not getting out the door immediately. The place is incredibly comfortable to hang in, do a little laundry, catch up on some blog & news reading, emails, and a nap might be in order... I'm certain I'll get out eventually.  Today even.

First impressions of Istanbul - from the drive into and through town, the helpfulness of Ali, to those in the neighborhood shops (even without much English spoken) - great vibe, feels very cool. Looking forward to exploring.. when I wake up more. Another Turkish coffee might help me get there.

Ouzo + early morning ferry + travel day = not such a good idea

Last night, Steve, the owner of the Hotel Villa Nora (the place I stayed in Hvar) asked me to join him for dinner with his friends in Stari Grad. Stari Grad is the other main town on the island and about a 15 minute ride - beautiful rolling hills, wine vineyards, olive fields, the Adriatic in the distance. We didn't actually go into town for dins but instead to his friend's house. His friend, Gregory, did speak better English, as promised, but still the communication wasn't perfect, especially when speaking about nuanced topics like American politics, his distress over Obama's choice to bail out the banks and not the people, capitalism vs. socialism, (you might guess where he leans), and his own views on the dissolution of Yugoslavia and the changes in Croatia in the last 20 years. Smart guy - artist, designer, professor, and chef, as he was preparing dinner. (Along with some house-hold help, that I couldn't really figure out.) 

We started out with wine and moved to perseco. While Steve and I chatted, Gregory brought out the typical Dalamatian fare of cured hams, salamis, mild cheese, tomatos, lots of olive oil and basket of bread came out. I'm a big fan - and apparently Steve is too. Together, we both put a nice dent into the platter. Then a variety of salads appeared, the most interesting of which, was cucumbers topped with smoked fish salad drizzled with thick balsamic. At this point, lots of perseco had been poured, and a few other people had joined - Gregory's brother John and their neighbor Peter. By this time, lots more drink, then steak. Big huge slabs of beef right off the grill. I'd been having a hankering for a hamburger all day, and although not "New York quality," totally hit the spot and satiated that yen.

Although Steve and Gregory are close to my age, both 50, they look older somehow. Living on the island, with this easier, laid back life style, you'd imagine it would be the opposite. But somehow not. The brother, John, was maybe 55-56 and Peter, who was hilarious - even though his English was by far the worst - was early 70's. And although still rugged and suntanned, I wouldn't have been shocked if he said he was 80. As the night went on, much of the conversation strayed from English. But the perseco and their animated ways kept me amused. Somehow I felt like knew what they were talking about. Which, of course, I didn't.  But what I did get, was their serious enjoyment of their food. They were loving every taste. And I loved watching them devour it all, as much as I enjoyed eating too. They, of course, have known each other for years and ate together just like families & friends do.. gnawing on the bones, reaching across the table, eating off each other's plates, picking off the main plates.  Food, the universal language. 

 

Next dessert. Strawberry ice cream, fresh strawberries and hot chocolate for dipping. They love their ice cream... as do I. And then, the aperitifs, a variety. One too many ouzo's later.... Steve, the designated driver, drove me and him back to the hotel and kindly guided me through the maze of the alleyways and back to my room.  Needless to say, getting up for the 7:30 am ferry to Split wasn't the most enjoyable moment of my day. Fortunately the ferry was "broken" and it was an hour late getting into the harbour. All the other passengers were grumbling a bit. I was fairly pleased. Got a chance to get some fresh morning air and a little breakfast before that ride... and serious nap.

Once I got to Split I hesitated. Was I really up for walking around today?  But there were lots of time options to get the bus back to Dubrovnik, so figured I'd walk a little and see how it went. The bus station has a handful of places where you can store your stuff for a few hours. No lockers. Just an old lady who takes you bag and gives you a ticket.  Easy. Awesome.  Of course, once i started walking, sans any bag weighing me down, I felt better - hardly perfect, but not bad considering - so ended up wandering for about 3-4 hours. Really loved it there. A woman from Cape Town, who I met the night before I left Dubrovnik, had told me that Split's Old Town was far more interesting than Dubrovnik's. Less touristy, more "lived in," as in people really live work and play in this area and more architecturally interesting.  I never got her name or have any way to let her know... but she was right. 

Firstly, Split is a town of about 350,000, while Dubrovnik is maybe 50,000. So Split is a "big city," comparatively. The minute you walked into the Old Town area, which is minutes off the harbour and bus station, you blend in. In Dubrovnik, everyone looks like a tourist or someone who caters to them. Whereas in Split, no one really notices or seems to care one way or the other. They're just going about their business. I first walked into the stalls of food - fresh fruit & vegetables, cheeses, nuts, meats. Then through to the cheap clothes vendors, along the lines of a Portobello or east end in London. Continued walking along and believed I was somewhere on the "outskirts" of the actual Old Town, but still in the vicinity. No tourist stands with maps anywhere to be found. Which pretty much said it all.  Figured there wasn't any real need to "know" where I was and kept wandering. Hung over, hot, starting to get hungry, not a lot of thinking going on. Eventually found my way back around to the Harbour and found the "real" Old Town alleyways. I grabbed some lunch, picked up some fruit and nuts from the ride back to Dubrovnik and made my way back to the bus stand. Just a cursory look around. Could have imagined being there for much longer.

A note about thoses buses...  There are a handful of different companies that provide service along the various routes. So, you can only buy a return fare ticket with the same company, which is limiting and slightly inconvenient. As I didn't know when I would be returning, I bought one way tickets.  The cost was irrelevant, totally negligible. But I realized when I found out that the service lines vary, that the actual service must vary too. And I was right. This bus might have been the most uncomfortable seat I've ever sat in. If I hadn't slept for a good chunk of it, I would have been very sad... I guess if you do this route all the time, you know which lines run when.  A bit odd.

Back in Dubrovnik, grabbed my suitcase that I kept in Lapad Bay and hopped in a taxi to a b&b in Cavtat where I'm staying for the night. It's about as close to the airport as you can get, 5-10 minutes.  As I've got a flight out at 6:25am, figured the closer the better. I'm sorry I didn't get here a bit earlier, as it is a very cute little village. The woman who owns the b&b gave me a ride down the street so I could hit the atm, and she gave me a little tour. Very littel tour - it's literally a few blocks, but very sweet, beautiful setting. Another time...

Tomorrow to Zagreb. Then to Istanbul

Hvar

What a difference a little water makes.  Hvar (pronounced Hwar) is a beautiful, quiet small-town like island off the coast of Makarska. The people are genuinely warm and delightful.  Nothing like those I ran into in Dubrovnik. (Although no one I've spoken with yet had the same impression I did.  Maybe it was bad luck on my part or I just noticed it more because I am traveling solo. Not sure..) But here, from the hotel people, to the restaurants, to the ice cream shops  and bars (they do have GREAT ice cream here!), couldn't be nicer, more helpful.  

Unfortunately, misinformation led me to the 4 1/2 hour bus ride from Dubrovnik to Split on Sunday, then the hour long ferry ride here.  A couple from Australia I met on the bus told me there is actually a direct ferry from Dubronik to Hvar, which is only 5 hours, as opposed to the 10 hours I was told - which is why I opted for the bus. (It's 10 hours to Split.) The catch is that the ferry only goes twice a week - more often come high season in a few weeks. But it was actually leaving on Sunday, which is when I was traveling. They said it was beautiful, that it cruised very close to the shore and gave you a real sense of all the islands along the Dalmatian coast... Unfortunately, the return doesn't go on Wednesday when I'm leaving, so sadly will miss that experience.  Oh well.

Bus ride wasn't awful though - sort of like the bus to the Hamptons. But stopped every 30-40 minutes or so, so you could stand up, get some air, use the bathrooms, etc.  A good part of it was along the coast, so pretty view at least. Originally planned to spend some time walking around Split's Old Town before getting on the ferry for Hvar. Had been told - again, incorrectly - that the ferries ran all the time, so didn't have to think about schedule. But they don't. Good thing I checked it out when I got off the bus at 3pm.... There was a 4pm catamaron that took 1 hour and an 8:30 ferry that took two. I chose the 4pm and opted to check out Split on my way back... knowing then that the leisurely ferry ride back wasn't an option anymore.

The hotel I'm staying at is very cute. Pretty quiet, more empty that I think they'd like for this time of year, so they gave me a larger room.  It's a very sweet, family run place in the middle of "town," a set of rambling streets not unlike the quieter alleyways of Old Town in Dubrovnik. But even much quieter than that. When I sat down for breakfast yesterday, they brought out enough food that would have filled me for the day. Bread, sweets, fruit, cheese & meat plate (standard Dalmatian fare), eggs, yogurt..  I think that might have been it. Tried to tell them on day 2, this morning, that they didn't need to bring all of that out, but they wouldn't hear of it. 

Spent the day yesterday following the path through the square, around the pathway following the coast. Beautiful, pristine, quiet.  First thing that's impossible not to notice is the overwhelming scent of pine, which will forever remind me of camp, mixed with this incredible smell of lavendar. A big different than the "american" lavendar.  I say overwhelming, but in the best sense of the word. Aromatic, soothing, really quite amazing. Ended up back in town, had lunch at a quiet little place. The waiter was very cute - awed and amazed by the Kindle. When I was leaving, I found him telling his waiter friends all about it.  Stopped in at the Sensori spa in the Adriana hotel to have my eyebrows done - much needed!  Beautiful place... may need to get back there again before I leave for another treat!  On my walk earlier I'd walked by a little bar called Hula Hula Hvar.  Knew I'd get back there, and I did - for a late afternoon drink and dip.  My kind of bar - good looking, friendly bartenders, a tequilla was 16 kn, the equivalent of about $4, decent music was playing - off and on. I stripped down to my bathing suit, dipped in the water which was perfect, really - gorgeous green/blue water, clean, temperature, 65-70 degrees (guess), watched the sun head down at 5:30ish, my favoraite light of the day, with drink in hand. Doesn't get much better. 

This morning I took a hike up to the Fortress. Not as impressive as the walk of the wall in Dubrovnik - certainly much smaller in scale.  But nice morning walk and pretty view from atop the city.  Beach day today. Not exactly "beaches" but similar rocks to the ones I found on Lapad Bay. And tonight, was invited by one of the hotel owners to check out Stari Grad, the other "town" on the island and to meet up for dinner with some of his Canadian friends... who he says speak Enlish a bit better than he does. (Hopefully!) 

The Australians I met didn't seem to be huge fans of this place.  Maybe too quiet.  Maybe didn't meet their expctations.  I had none. So have been pleasantly pleased.

More Dubrovnik

Lazy couple of days.  Thursday, after visiting my "friend" in the internet cafe for a bit, wandered around Ploce, a more residential area on the other side of Old Town.  Some beautiful homes - and views, I imagine. I checked out a few apartments in this area online and most cautioned how steep the climb. Not for the faint of heart. (And not the reason, I didn't choose!)  Had a bite, octopus salad, again not all that impressive. After a few bites, ordered the french fries the Americans were eating... also not great, but soaked up the nothingness. 

More time wandering Old Town.  Today checked out the galleries and a few museums. Had zero interest in any of the stores, except to buy a postcard for my nieces, Eliza and Ruby, as they're still young enough to appreciate (i think..) And admittedly, didn't enter one church. Lots of tours, lines, and honestly, just not a pull for me. I did, however, check out the synagogue. I'm not religious, even remotely. But I am Jewish, and feel "it" - the community and the history. And for some reason, wherever I travel, I'm interested in checking out the Jewish community. (It took me and my friend Liz, a good half hour to find it in Dublin!) The synagogue is on Zudioska, a small side street off Stradun, the main thoroughfare through Old Town. This street was the designated Jewish ghetto. The synagogue itself is very small, including the balcony reserved for the women.  The museum, too, was quite small - two rooms displaying torahs, kaddish cups, prayer books, etc - as well as an array of official documents requiring Jews to identify their stores, wear armbands and declaring the restriction of movement and gatherings. The cloth armband and large pin with a Z - and nothing else - was pretty powerful.  As I walked out, sitting on a step were three Jewish New Yorkers (could have been Floridians), talking about Jewish history and our long lineage. The only Americans I have run into that I almost said hello to. 

Today, wandered around Lapad - internet cafe, of course, bank (won't even detail the initial rudeness.. consistently fascinating), lunch, exercise (thanks to the kind Kristi Molinari, an instructor at equinox) and then happened about a great find.  Outside of my apartment there are rocks and steps down to the water. After the work out, wanted to dive into that water and saw someone lazing on my rock. The nerve... Was curious about a restaurant that was up to the right, around the bay, a direction I hadn't walked yet, so followed the path. To my happy surprise, all along a beautiful, quiet, aromatically pined walkway were lots little "rock areas" where a few people lounged and took a dip in the water.  Found my own and finished my book. And took a dip in the water - clean, perfect temperature, beautiful really. Never did find the restaurant.

As I was planning my trip, more than a few people told me I was staying too long in Dubrovnik - and Istanbul too. They were correct that there isn't a week's worth of activity to fill time in this area.  How many days can one really walk through Old Town?  (I'm done.) And even if you explore the surrounding areas, which I've now done, maybe 4-5 days tops. Which means, for me, time's up. But when you slow down (not easy for a New Yorker to do) and just hang (which I'm actually excellent at, if/when I allow myself),  it's really enjoyable to feel less like a "must-see" tourist and just read, write, walk and think about where to eat my next mediocre meal. When I walked to the store to get water this afternoon, the guy I got pizza from last night actually nodded hello. That was a first.

Croats

Last week, right before I left, I sat with my dear friend Jason at the Ear Inn on Spring street.  As I was telling stories, describing a few people in succession, he chuckled (such the wrong word for Jason, maybe half a hearty laugh is more apt) and wondered aloud, fearfully, how I might describe him.  He found my descriptions, although vivid, fairly negative in light. I took it to heart, paused and entertained the possibility he may be right.  I genuinely felt real warmth and love for all three of those I described, so I was sorry to hear that didn't come through. So, I've been thinking a lot the last few days about how I might describe people differently, and Jason in particular, a friend for 15+ years.  I believe he'd be pleased with what I've been thinking, and maybe reading it soon.  But sorry to say, his insight hasn't affected the judgements or words i'm about to use to describe the Croats I've met. I'm certain I'll get beaten up by somebody about this - and probably not Jason - for the quick and ungenerous assessment of an entire people, but here goes.

The Croatians are just not that warm of a people. They're not "un" friendly. They're just not friendly. All a bit dour, sad, gloomy, even dejected maybe.  Some are growly. Most, mostly uninterested. Let's put it this way, hardly vivacious and not a scintilla of humor or wit. And it's not the translation or lack of communication - this is even with those who speak english fluently. It's not to say I haven't run across those who are helpful and kind.  There are a few stand-outs. The woman who led me to the Hotel Bellevue as I missed the path, told me, without prompting, that her brother lived in Winnipeg and that his friend from there, along with another friend from Austin were visiting their mother here in Dubrovnik for a few days. Although the visit seemed less joyous and more like an imposition than anything else. The woman at the bus terminal was more helpful and easier with a smile than most. Of course, she was at the "Help" desk, but that hasn't really made a difference to most others, so i give her the points. Only one actually seemed "animated" for lack of a better word.  On my walk back through Lapad on Iva Vojivovica, one of the main streets through town, I stopped into a cellphone/stereo/electronics store.  Figured they'd know where an internet cafe was. The guy spoke perfect English (most here speak plenty to communicate.. except that damn cheese girl), gave it a think and directed me 100 meters up the road.  (That time knew exactly how far 100 meters was, as I'd just passed it not 5 minutes beforehand.)  It was the way about him, not the info he provided.  The waiter at Buono last night was efficient, but deadpan as all hell, never a smile - even when I tried to get it out of him. When I gave him a tip, which was probably higher than they're used to, his eyes almost bugged out when he said thank you. An expression, yes.  But hardly expressive. The girl at the internet cafe I've now been frequenting outside of Old Town at the Pile gate might be the most "normal," I've run across. Yet her, like almost everyone else I've met just aren't very interested in "conversing." The minute the business at hand is attended to, they've moved on.  I realize this is a tourist town and they run across people from all parts of the world fairly consistently.  But I don't think their attitude is blase, just indifferent.

New York gets wholeheartedly undeserved and unfair abuse worldwide for being an unfriendly place.  But I go out all the time by myself and meet people there easily and often. A drink at a bar and you have a new friend. Not here. Definitely not here. True, I havent explored the night scene in Old Town, but I sense there wouldnt be much of a difference. Most places I've traveled to, people want to tell you about their city, their people, to share it - and maybe even ask about you, especially coming from New York, a place that, let's face it, is of great intrigue to most around the world. If the people are as distant as this here in the city, I can only  imagine what it's like in the more rural areas of this country. I'll be interested to see what the island folk on Hvar are like... more to come on that one.  

Stari Grad

So all good intentions had me up early to walk the City Wall before the mid day heat kicked in.  But sleep didn't come early enough.  Although Lapad generally has a robust local community, Lapad Beach, where I'm staying, attracts a serious tourist crowd, and by the sounds of it, a group that would have felt just as home at Spring Break in Orlando.  Knowing what I know now, I may have chosen my accomodations differently. But still pleased to be away from "the day destination" and to have fully been able to sess out the lay of the land, local markets, daily bus lines, etc. 

Needless to say, I was late to rise and hit the ticket booth just as the clock tower rang noon. In a word, spectacular. The wall surrounds Dubrovnik's Old Town - Stari Grad, or just Grad - a small compact area comprised of small lanes and alleys filled with shops, restaurants, bars and galleries.  In between are big and small squares, churches, monuments, a cathedral, monasteries, fountains and a few museums.  The "book" says it is about 290 square meters.  But being one of the Americans who never did get the metric system, I have zero sense of how that translates into square feet.  Too bad, considering most of the directions I receive include some variation of not far, just ahead about 200 meters.  I not, figuring I'll hit it eventually.  To put it in perspective, maybe the size of Soho - south of Houston, north of broome, east of 6th and west of west broadway.  Maybe?  About, anyway.  The wall provides an amazing view and perspective of the city and this area - a juxtoposition of the solid stone wall, magnificent clear blue water, bright shining sun, vivid surrounding greenery, small homes with quaint flower boxes and laundry hanging on the clothelines and, of course, satellite dishes. Fantastically beautiful. Old and new.

Towards the end, I was hitting my own wall and had to stop at the last outpost to get a water. The full walk should take about 45 minutes to an hour, but I hit 90 minutes as I was having a grand time, walking slowly, stopping a lot, taking it all in and taking lots of pics. So, I was tapped. No shade pretty much at all. There are a lot of things that are somewhat "retro" here, almost circa early 80's, but not everything. On my way into town I had stopped to get bus tickets and water at the news kiosk, the water costing 7 kn, approximately $1.50.  Just about right, about the same in New York. When I first entered the wall, I picked up another, 12 kn. OK, fair enough. But here at the last stop, when I couldn't wait it out the last five minutes, 14kn. They may have not embraced the internet - or good food - but they've got that price gauging thing down quite well.  Impressive almost.

Now time for food and a good walk around.  As often happens when I'm overly hungry, I stop thinking but my legs keep moving.  Where to go? Where to sit? So many choices. What do I want? Can't think..  but then I spy three people walking with sandwiches. I lost them for a second, but found them around the next corner. Luckily English speaking Italians who kindly led me to the sandwich shop.  Perfect. Cheap, quick, immediate.  Had a sit on the stoop of a church, watched the passerbys and ate my fairly decent sandwich. Energized, satiated. Time to explore.

I wanted to get off the main thoroughfares and to find the path that followed the Adriatic. I winded down through   the streets and off the Old Harbour, around St. John's Fortress, found a small group of people - and dogs - sun bathing, swimming, reading, hanging. City beach.  Put my feet in that water and it felt mighty good.  Then worked my way down to the Buza 1, a bar right on the water. Apparently made specifically for Americans, as the sign for beer was only in English. But it had quite the view, so I had me a sit there too for a bit.  More winding alleyways filled with few people, only doors to mysterious apartments, flower pots, sleeping cats, a few old ladies and kids playing soccer. 

Speaking of those Americans... last night I was chatting with a lovely older couple from Leeds who are staying next to me. In our conversation about the over abundance of tourists in Lapad, I mentioned I hadn't ran into any Americans yet.  Well, I found them. Lots of them. All here in Old Town. (Which now I'm thinking more locals live in than I first thought.) Not sure what it is that is so offputting and unnerving when hearing American accents abroad. Maybe it's the loudness of their voices, the twang of their accents, the way they immediately stand out, or their fanny packs. But when I hear them, I don't speak, hoping they don't notice I'm one of them. Those hanging at Buza were young and pretty tame, but still, I didn't utter a word.  I am aware that I may find that familiarity welcoming come Asia..

Continuing on my walk, found my way back to the Stradun and was about to leave when I saw a sign for the War Photo Limited Museum. I've been reading about Croatia and the dissolution of Yugolsavia since I'd been here. Still reading Infidelities by Jospi Novakovich, a collection of short stories, but also picked up another book yesterday while I was here in town. I've got the Kindle and promised myself i wouldn't buy anything else to lug around, but I'm a sucker for a good book store and couldn't help myself, so bought They Would Never Hurt a Fly by Slavenka Drakulic about war criminals on trial in the Hague. Interesting, really well written. (The author was born in Croatia, is a writer and journalist, with several books both non fiction and fiction on the area.)  So was naturally drawn to seeing the actual images of all I'd been reading about. 

The exhibit's intent is to show the human side of war and included photographs of Columbia by Jason Howe, US soldiers back from Iraq by Nina Berman and the break up of Yugoslavia by Ron Havic. Incredibly powerful - all of them. At first, looked very closely at each one, the descriptions, the words of some of the peole in the photographs, and then I couldn't. Too effective. I couldn't let it all in - or didn't want to. I'm glad I saw it.  But definitely ended a lovely day on a somewhat dour note. 

Before I could completely leave the area, had to torture myself (i use that word very lightly here) at the internet cafe. Slow machines, crashes, problems uploading pics to smugmug, a keyboard that is insanely dificult to use, as the keys aren't where I know them to be.  Couldn't get this blurb posted - even though written. Tomorrow. I now see all too clearly how bad my addiction is to my laptop, my email and a 24/7 wi-fi connection. I'm seriously jonzing hard for constant access. I think I'll be good after Dubrovnik - mostly. (Good as in, I'll get my access back!)  Will see.

A few of many pictures

Local Day

Early evening, sitting in a restaurant-bar called Buono between Gruz Bay and Lapad.  Nice neighborhood place.  Definitely feels like no tourists here.  Well, except me. (Oops.. two tourists just arrived, Brits with cameras strapped across their chest.)

The morning started off with an English breakfast at Casa Bar, right outside my apartment. I used to have a "thing" with eggs. Every once in a while I would get nauseous after eating them, something my sister seemed to be curious about.  I havent had that for years, I eat eggs nearly every morning.  But by mid morning, thats what it felt like. Didnt occur to me i was dehydrated, as I thought i was watering up fine.

(note-the croatian keyboard is layed out differently. y is where z should be, cant find apostrophe..lots of typos, im certain.)

On my continued quest to check out the local neighborhood before I hit Old town, I took a walk to Gruz, much of it downhill.  The return walk back wasnt far from my mind...  Very hot, very sweaty.  I actuallz love the heat.  But my body just isnt used to it yet, as New York was just finding spring before i left.  Good think I started here before hitting Asia. (tourist alert - 2 more, a couple in their 50s.  Apparently not such a local place.) 

I really liked Gruz. A small fishing harbour. Definitely less touristy than Lapad.  Felt totally local, everyone saying hello, walking with their shopping bags and fresh flowers. Loved the outdoor market, which was one of my main destinations. Picked up some strawberries and a tomato.  Lots of veggies to choose from, but am I really going to make a salad? Then got bread and cheese.  Sadly the cheese girl spoke no English at all.  She gave me a taste of one she seemed to be recommending - me using the international "point to mouth" sign, we understood each other.  Not amazing, but totally fine.  As none of the cheese names were written in English, it would have just been a tasting bonanza  - one i would have thoroughly enjoyed, but pretty sure the counter girl wouldnt have.  (I asked for a taste at my first ice cream outing - first of many - and she looked at me like i had three heads.  Apparently never been to the Tasty D-lite.)

Stopped for a coffee to soak in the scenery.  Lots of men, smoking, sitting, kibutzing.  Not too many women.  Lot of that here.  Italian-like attitude.  Continued to take care of my Gruz "errands," walking to the ferry and the bus station to sort out the schedules to get to the islands on Sunday. Couldnt figure it out online from home.  Apparently not so easy as no one here could tell me exactly what my options were, even the concierge at Bellevue Hotel got it wrong.  Although originally planned to go to Korcula, I made the call to go to Hvar.  Its where I really wanted to go, the schedules are more convenient, and all in all, not that much further.  Well see... a bit fearful of the bus ride to Splitz.  Ill deal then...  By this time, I knew i had to get back.  Started getting that"weird" feeling. Bought a bus ticket back, but after I found out I had to wait for 40 minutes, I hopped in a cab.  By the time I got home, I was feeling that dehydration big time. Couldnt move.  Big nap, hang on the porch, a bit of reading and writing. At about 4 decided I should hit Old Town.  Fantastic.  Beautiful. But as I plan to be there again tomorrow.  More on that then.

A handful of pictures I just posted. Until I can get full access to my own laptop with wireless, this is it.

 

Dubrovnik Day 1

A fairly uneventful trip from NYC via Dublin. The ambien-coffee combo did the trick. Usual runway delays taking off at JFK, but I didn't notice. The ambien had already kicked in. And the coffe, along with the Sunday NYTimes got me through the 4 hours waiting in Dublin's airport for the flight to Dubrovnik. The only unfortunate part of that leg of the journey - I had my handy all-in-one pocket tool, that my father gave me, taken away while going through security in Dublin. With my mother's much needed help, I had a repacking/reorganization escapade Saturday morning before I left, and the bag of cords & electronics that originally were to be in my luggage, ended up in a new carry on bag. Bummer.  (Sorry, Dad!) Naturally US security didn't find it. Classic.

Arriving in Dubrovnik couldn't have been smoother. Passport control was the speediest I'd ever encountered. They might has well have had a sign that said "Come on in." Walked out and my bag was literally just coming around the baggage carousel, exited and found my name was first in the row of drivers' signs. Only disappointment - walked out into a bit of rain. But very light.

The drive from the airport was quite lovely - rocky, mountainous, green (pines, not lush), mediterranean houses built into the hills, lots of b&b apartment type places for sublet. A quiet beauty. The soundtrack was truly bad car radio music - a mix of pop, electronica and polka - bizarre & truly awful, but humorous too. The names of all the towns I'd read about passed by - Place, Mlini, Old Town, Pile. Dubrovnik is definitely a tourist town. All the signage (and mini-billboards) tells you so. As we came closer to "town,"tons of signs for all the various hotels, along with a gorgeous sunset that broke through the rain clouds.  

 I sublet a place outside of the Old Town called Lapad Bay.  Although still fairly touristy, there seems to be some local life and easy accss to grocery, bars, restaurants (that are worth what you pay) by foot. What the inside of the apartment lacks in comfort, the outdoor deck, overlooking the bay, makes up for in spaces. Gorgeous.  It started pouring after I unpacked, got settled, etc. But still thought a drink was a good idea. Now about 10ish Sunday night, and everything looked pretty much closed down. The path back to more shops that I passed on my way-in felt prety desolate, so decided to stay put - and dry. Got a slice (not bad!) and an ice cream code (excellent!), came home and took out the new Kindle. Started a book called Infidelities by Josip Novakovich - short stories about Croatia. Soaking it all up. One story in, I it's good.  

Woke up this morning to beautiful sunshine & a little ambien haze. Decided to just get the lay of the land  first, started walking & ended up taking a serious trek through Lapad. After about 90 minutes, I landed at Hotel Bellevue, one of their "5 Star hotels," which is where I'm sitting now. Supposedly has one of the bestt restaurants here, Vapor, and a killer sun-set bar called Spice Lounge.  I'm now sitting on their deck looking at a spectacular view of Dance Bay and the Adriatic Sea, eating lunch (seriously nothing to write home about - literally.) But I do get free internet access. Croatia doesn't seem to be big on the internet. The place I"m staying doesn't have any and I didn't pass any wi-fi cafes along the way. So, the walk was well worth it, regardless of the mediocre food. Unfortunately spent about an hour trying to figure out why Google docs wasn't working. And still haven't. But at least access to enough for now. 

Although I did take pictures along the way, as well as the vista I now am taking in... no usb cord to upload.  So pictures will have to wait for another time.  Posting may be spotty here.  We'll see what Old Town has to offer tomorrow.